Piove

Rain stopped play.

Today was a bit lot of a washout. We never left Bellagio.

We’ve overstayed, anyway, in a sense. Two nights here would have been plenty. On reflection, staying in Como would have placed us in a geographically more convenient location for day-trips, not to mention have given us more to go and see in town. Bellagio is certainly pretty, but it doesn’t take long to tame. You live and learn.

The children have been an absolute nightmare today, too; probably the worst day we’ve ever endured with them. Cooped up too long with an abundance of energy and too few ways for it to dissipate. Those are the breaks when the weather turns to shite, though.

It’s a shame we didn’t get to see Lago di Como with blue skies and a shining sun. Some other day, perhaps.

The forecast for the next few days is dismal, I’m afraid, but maybe we’ll get lucky.

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My Ears Are Burning

Boneheads, indeed!

Sarah was right, though. It took me a good hour and forty-five minutes to drive the sixty or so kilometres from Lenno to Bellagio.

As Sarah said, I probably should have left the car on the western shore of the lake or brought it back on the ferry. The traffic going through Como was murder and this really slowed me down. I then had to floor it along the winding road of the eastern shore in order to get back at a decent time for dinner. It was a good test of my driving skills, though, as the road is crammed with blind bends and tight squeezes, where only a single car can pass at once.

It was quite misty today; cool, too; but at least it didn’t rain. The high temperature for tomorrow is forecast to be 11°C. Let’s hope it turns out better than that.

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Men Are Boneheads

I’m sitting here in our very lovely hotel room in Bellagio with the children, but without Ian. Where is he, you ask? I’ll tell you.

Lake Como is shaped like an upside down capital Y. Bellagio is at the point in the middle. It’s a nice location, but a serious pain for getting anywhere else by car and then getting back. It’s a small town and there’s not a heck of a lot to do. If you’re just adults you could go from cafe to cafe and drink coffees, shop in the shops full of things that most people don’t buy, etc. But with little kids who aren’t into shopping for silk, leather and glassware or drinking endless coffees (well, Lukie wouldn’t mind that last bit) there isn’t much to do here.

So today we drove to Como to check things out there. Como is a city of 80-some thousand people, so there was lots more going on there. Como is at the bottom of the left branch of the upside-down Y. Then we drove up the western edge of the lake to check out all the little towns on that side.

The problem with all this driving is that it’s on winding roads and I’m prone to carsickness. And I’m pregnant and prone to nausea. And Lukie decided that he would yell at the top of his lungs unless I held his hand. Since he’s short and sits directly behind me, the only way I can hold his hand is to sit sideways in my chair, facing out the window, and reach my right arm behind the seat to get to him. So I had my head turned all the way to the left so that I could watch straight ahead and try to avoid carsickness and my arm twisted all the way to the right to hold his hand. The whole thing was very uncomfortable and I was on the verge of puking by the time we got to Como. I had to hold his hand all the way up the western coast of the lake, too.

So at our last stop on the western side it occurred to me that we could just leave the car in one of the free parking spots and take the 10-minute ferry back to Bellagio. Then we could go back in the morning and drive back down the coast in a more leisurely fashion, stopping off in the towns that we missed on the way up. This would avoid a 1:45 minute drive back to Bellagio tonight. It was already 5:00, so this seemed very smart. We also have no plans as yet for tomorrow and this seemed like as good a plan as we were likely to think of. The whole lake is dotted with picturesque little communities full of cafes and gelaterias, so going to one coast as opposed to the other doesn’t seem so important to me.

Ian clearly wasn’t keen on the plan but said only that maybe we’d want to go to the east coast tomorrow and that would be difficult if our car was on the west coast. I don’t even know that that’s true. It’s possible that it wouldn’t take much longer to go to the east coast from the west coast than it would from Bellagio. I pointed that out but he didn’t seem moved. So we got in the car to drive back to Bellagio, telling Lukie that I wouldn’t be holding his hand. I hoped that he would go to sleep since his nap today was very short. He agreed, but started demanding my hand within 30 seconds.

I decided that I wasn’t up for the almost 2-hour drive and opted to take the ferry myself with the children. I tried one last time to convince Ian to join us but his mind was made up. He also clearly didn’t think that it would take him an hour and 45 minutes. I think it will probably take even longer. We’ll see.

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Bellagio

Here we are in the Italian region of Lombardy, more than 1,000 kilometres from home. 768 of those were covered yesterday, as we traversed the Netherlands and Germany, making it into Switzerland before nightfall.

When the children’s bedtime was looming, we pulled off the road just outside of Basel and found a room for the night in in the small town of Sissach at the Zur Sonne hotel.

The room was really nothing to write home about, but I can reveal that the hotel possesses an excellent restaurant. There is really no way you could suspect this from the rest of the hotel. Everything else about the place was average or slightly better, but the restaurant really excelled.

Anyway, we drove the remaining 277 km today to Bellagio. The Google Maps link shows us skirting around Lago di Como (Lake Como) to the south, but, in actual fact, we took the expensive (€17) ferry from Menaggio on the west side of the lake.

The drive down through Switzerland was breathtaking, one of the very nicest I have ever had the pleasure of being behind the wheel for. From Lucerne down to Lugano was really one long feast for the eyes, and one that didn’t end at the border, either. On the Italian side, the spectacle continued around Lago di Lugano (Lake Lugano), making us wish we could spend an hour or two at every bend in the road.

Anyway, Bellagio is quite lovely. It’s fairly low key, or at least feels that way in May. It may be a different story in July and August.

We haven’t done much yet, but that’s part of the appeal of being here. We’ve eaten well, as you might imagine, including the obligatory scrumptious ice-cream and delicious coffee. Apart from that, though, we’ve just ambled around the narrow streets and browsed in shops.

Similarly, we have no real plans for tomorrow, either, although a drive around some more of the lake seems in order. We’ll just take it as it comes.

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The Road Beckons Once More

Sarah wants to go travelling again. Me, I could live without it this time.

For one thing, Koninginnedag will be here in a couple of days. We were in Istanbul last year and missed it, so Eloïse doesn’t really have a memory of it. The weather here has also been beautiful over the last few days. The garden is in bloom, the grass is lush and the Vondelpark is awash every afternoon with people picnicking and lazing around. I see these as good omens for a pleasant Koninginnedag, not in the last place because of the feelings of relaxation they engender in me, the beholder.

But, as I intimated, we won’t be here this time.

We’ll also miss the Giro d’Italia, as it passes through the Netherlands. The first three stages will start in Amsterdam. The first, a time trial, will start and finish within walking distance of our house. We have the unique opportunity to witness every single rider individually pass by in front of our nose. As a bonus, traffic will be at a minimum those days and obviously won’t be allowed anywhere near the route.

But, as I mentioned, we won’t be here for it.

Tomorrow, we hit the road and drive through Germany and Switzerland en route to northern Italy, where we’ll spend the two week May school holiday. We’re bound by these scholastic hiatuses now, forced to migrate at the same time as all of the other herded sheep, after decades of scoffing at them for being mugs who had dug their own graves. We weren’t wrong, of course. It’s just that we have since grabbed a shovel and carved out a plot of land for ourselves, too.

I’ve updated the car with the 2010 Audi navigation DVD, so we have the latest maps for the trip.

We won’t make Italy tomorrow; at least, I’d be very surprised if we did. If we get as far as Lucerne, I’ll consider it a commendable achievement. So, who knows where we’ll spend tomorrow night?

The day after, though, we’ll enter the land of great food and all of my gains from disciplined dieting and a strict exercise regime will start to unravel.

Sarah has planned everything, so I couldn’t even tell you where we’re going, although I do know that we’ll end up in Venice and will be skipping Milan.

Hopefully, we’ll have some Internet access along the way and I can blog about what we’ve seen and where we’ve been.

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