A Budding Shopaholic

Late yesterday afternoon as we were looking for a dinner restaurant, Eloïse stopped in her tracks and pulled me back to show me something in a shop. I would personally describe this place as a one-stop shop for budding hookers, but to Eloïse it was a store full of beautiful clothes and accessories.

She had her eye on the headband rack and one particular bejewelled monstrosity. She begged me to buy it but there was just no way that I was going to and I told her that she could feel free to buy it with her piggybank money. We were in a hurry to find our dinner so I dragged her whining out of the shop and repeatedly explained to her that she could buy it herself. Once she finally understood that we would give her the money and then she would just take it out of her piggybank to pay us back when we got home she calmed down. I guess at first she just thought that I was being a real bitch who was restricting her to an impossible option, since her piggybank is hundreds of miles away.

The hairband cost 2 pounds and we tried to explain that that was a small but not insignificant portion of her own personal fortune of about 30 Euros, all of which (and the piggybank to hold it) has come to her by way of the very generous Opa Tony. She has yet to spend a penny of her own money but we have talked on numerous occasions of starting to give her an allowance. It just has never panned out because there’s not that much that she wants that is both cheap enough for her to afford and something that we’re not prepared to buy for her.

We encouraged her to shop around and make a good choice and got her on board with that plan. From the moment she woke up this morning she talked of little other than our shopping plans today. At breakfast she received her first instalment of pocket money, which will theoretically be provided at the rate of 1 Euro per week. Her sucker of a father gave her 2 pounds, though, as back pay for last week because “he’s been intending to start giving her pocket money for a while” and in pounds because we’re in Scotland.

By the mid-afternoon we finally made our way to the shopping street and found both an Accessorize and a claire’s. Upon reflection it occurred to me that the hairbands at the slut shop were probably all adult-sized and therefore unsuitable so we didn’t go back there.

It became clear to me long ago that Eloïse has gotten her fashion sense from someone other than me. She clearly has also come by a love of shopping from some unknown source. I suppose that could be down to Papa, but he likes to shop for quite different things than she does. The Accessorize had a huge little girl section and she was like a pig in shit looking at all the hair stuff, junk jewellery, blingy shoes and whatnot. I was pleased when I was able to encourage her to focus on the 1/2 off rack. claire’s also had lots of little girl stuff, but it was more character-based and junky. We had a narrow miss with a horribly cheesy tiara for 3 pounds 50, but thankfully we encouraged her that it was impractical and that Lukie was likely to break it.

In the end we went back to Accessorize and got a rather tasteful headband with a shimmery butterfly for 2 pounds 50 from the 1/2 off rack. (She used the 2 pounds from this morning and will owe us 50 Eurocents from her piggybank when we get home — no currency conversion happening here.) Given how shy she is we were very surprised when she went up to the counter herself and handled the transaction on her own. Her adherence to socially-accepted norms while doing this was less than perfect, but it was good enough and we proud. The headband is “blueish-green,” Eloïse’s new favorite color.  Pink is so last week.

Eloïse's new hairband

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It Wasn’t To Be

Let’s get the worst out of the way first: the Netherlands failed to complete their clean run of victories in the World Cup, succumbing to Spain in the final for a 1-0 defeat. Fair’s fair, Spain were the better team during the match and deserved to win. We were outclassed. Maybe in another 30 years…

We watched the match in the bar/restaurant of our hotel. There were a couple of other Dutch people present, along with a Spanish family. That was nice, because it wasn’t just disinterested people watching.

The good news is that Edinburgh is great, immediately placing itself high on my list of favourite European cities. I love the way the city is entwined and entangled in its surrounding geographical features. The atmosphere, character and architecture of the city are all lovely.

Edinburgh’s climate is less appealing. We’ve already had our fair share of rain with much more forecast for the days ahead. It’s also chilly, which is frustrating after the gorgeous weather we’d had in Amsterdam in the days leading up to our departure. In fact, the daytime temperature in Edinburgh isn’t even bettering the nighttime low in Amsterdam. That’s how big the difference is.

Food and drink recommendations are due for Chocolate Soup, The Advocate, Foodies At Hollyrood and David Bann.

In particular, Chocolate Soup has a fantastic selection of drinks and shortbreads, and Foodies has toys, crayons and books for the small people; not to mention delicious food, so it provided some very welcome relief after a morning spent hiking around Holyrood Park in high wind. The children really earned their treats today.

The National Museum of Scotland and Edinburgh Castle have provided some fun activities so far, plus shopping for kids’ clothes at M&S while it was raining outside.

Mostly, though, it’s fun to just amble around this beautiful city.

The drive up here from Newcastle was an easy and pleasant one, too. The ferry arrived almost on time and we were relaxed, well fed and ready to go. I would definitely recommend DFDS and this crossing as a mode of transport to the north of England. It’s so easy and the timing is perfect if you’re travelling with small children.

The border formalities took rather longer than expected. The guards at the port seem to take their work very seriously, much more so than the ones who work at the Eurotunnel, for instance.

We arrived in Edinburgh about three hours after docking in Newcastle, which wasn’t too bad.

Here’s hoping for dry weather tomorrow.

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Coals To Newcastle

The DFDS King Of Scandinavia is a nicer ship than the boat of the same owner that we took from Kiel in Germany to Klaipėda in Lithuania last year. In fact, this is a really nice vessel, with good restaurants (expensive, too, mind you), evening entertainment (we missed the ABBA tribute, I’m afraid), a children’s playing area, helpful staff and large, comfortable cabins.

I usually find time to post at least one message in the run-up to a holiday, but this time, there just wasn’t ever a stretch of time long enough to post in that wasn’t better spent on some other task or chore.

It’s been a busy time of late, a well-worn cliché in my postings, but no less true for its overuse.

We’re en route from IJmuiden to Newcastle. IJmuiden is only half an hour’s drive from our home and the first time we’ve ever taken a ferry from a Dutch port.

I have to say, it was a particularly easy experience. Upon our arrival on the quayside, we waited only a few minutes before being allowed to drive up the ramp into the bowels of the boat, park and make our way to our cabin.

Our cabin had been allocated at the drive-through check-in point, so we didn’t even have to queue in a reception area on the boat. Instead, we could simply get in the lift and go to deck 11, where our spacious cabin awaited us.

The children were given balloons shaped into animals as soon as they boarded the boat. In their world, there could have been no better welcome.

After dumping out stuff, we went to the play area, where Eloïse and Lucas dove maniacally into the sea of brightly coloured plastic balls. Lukie in particular was in seventh heaven in there.

There followed a brief stop on the observation deck, where, the tanoy had announced, there would be a member of staff explaining all of the wildlife that could be seen during the sailing.

Sure enough, a woman was handing out binoculars and telling people about all of the types of bird, dolphin and porpoise that one can expect to see between IJmuiden and Newcastle.

A hearty dinner ensued and Eloïse demonstrated how particularly at ease she’s feeling today by making conversation with an old Swiss man, something she’d normally be far too shy to do.

Today was the last day of the school year for Eloïse. The after-school festivities served to drive home once more, if any affirmation were needed, that we are affiliated with a caring, loving school with a kind-hearted community of parents.

Sarah was even handed a pot plant as a thank-you for having been a louse mother for the last year, but she had to give the plant to someone else, on account of our impending holiday.

There was a ceremonial farewell to the oldest infants, who, after the summer, will no longer return to Juf Yvette’s kleuterklas, but instead graduate to the eerste klas, the 1st year. It was heartwarming, tinged with the slightest element of sadness, as one realised that things would never be quite the same again. For one thing, a girl that Eloïse likes very much will have moved up a class after the summer and Eloïse herself will no longer be one of the youngest children in the class. Nothing stays the same.

I can’t tell you the peace of mind that stems from having a child who is in harmony with her school environment. I really do think our school is great and it’s so satisfying to see how much Eloïse enjoys being there. But why are we on a boast to Newcastle?

Well, it’s not because we fancy a holiday in Newcastle, that’s for sure. No disrespect to the residents, but I’ve never heard much to recommend it as a holiday destination for, well, anyone, really.

No, we’re going to Scotland, which, it may surprise you to learn, is a country that none of us has been to before. In fact, I don’t think I’ve ever been further north in the UK than Blackpool, so this is very much new territory even for me, someone who was raised in England, albeit about as far away from the North-East as you can possibly get.

When we roll off the boat in the morning, we’ll be just a couple of hours’ driving time removed from Edinburgh, our first stop on this roughly month-long trip.

The weather is forecast to be shite over the next five days, but things could hardly be worse than they were in Italy, so we’re not feeling too intimidated by the prospect. We may change our minds later, when we find ourselves on the sparsely populated islands with very little to do or see in the precipitation, but we’ll cross that bridge when we come to it.

We actually only picked up our car from the garage a few days ago, where it had been undergoing extensive repairs to fix the damage sustained on the Italian motorway back in early may, when we curtailed our rain-drenched sojourn and headed home a week ahead of schedule.

Once work on the car had commenced, the damage turned out to be worse than had at first been apparent, with the final bill running somewhere in the region of €7000. Thankfully, the bill gets sent straight to our insurance company, who will hopefully recoup all of the costs from the guilty party in Italy, once all of the paperwork is processed. If not, well, our no-claims bonus will be taking a severe hit next year.

The car looks as good as new now, though. Even a couple of minor dents sustained by my own clumsiness, such as when I reversed into a Slovakian tree in 2006 and again into our too slowly opening electric gate a couple of years ago, have now been miraculously erased, as the whole back section of the car has had to be replaced.

What else is new?

Well, the Dutch have made it through to the final of the World Cup. It’s only the third time ever that we’ve made it this far, and the first in over 30 years.

We didn’t win on either of the previous two occasions, so the excitement in the country at the prospect of beating Spain on Sunday couldn’t be greater.

I don’t even like football, but it’s impossible not to be caught up in the rapturous atmosphere that has enveloped the country since we achieved the seemingly impossible and sent Brazil packing a couple of rounds back.

The atmosphere in Amsterdam is palpable and, for once, people are united behind a single cause that transcends political, cultural and social differences. If only the brotherhood of man could be inspired by something more meaningful than a bloody football match!

Such are the facts, however, and, within those confines, the sense of occasion has still managed to tease out the national pride and sense of camaraderie lurking within even the most misanthropic of curmudgeons: me.

So, reckon that we’ll be seeking out a venue with a suitably large television screen to cheer on the national eleven on Sunday, as they hopefully send Spain home in tears and elevate themselves to the status of demi-gods back home. My only regret is that we won’t be in the Netherlands at the time of the match, because, as I said, the atmosphere is rarified.

In fact, if we weren’t embarking on this holiday, I’d probably be making a concerted effort right now to secure a ticket for the final, and flying to South Africa to bear witness to this once-in-a-lifetime sporting event.

Call me crazy, but this is something that the children of now will discuss with their children thirty years on from now. A sporting achievement like this doesn’t happen often and it’s hard to overstate how seriously football is taken in the Netherlands. The achievement of reaching the final of the World Cup is made all the more significant by our nation’s diminutive size and otherwise complete irrelevance in global affairs. For once, this small country is taking centre stage in the world’s spotlights.

Onc can only hope that Sneijder, Robben et al have the wherewithal to finish what they started when Sunday rolls around. Having seen them play Germany on Wednesday, Spain won’t be an easy team to beat.

That other great sporting event, the Tour de France, started in Rotterdam last Saturday. Lamely, we didn’t go, citing too little time in the run-up to our holiday and the difficulty of dealing with the children or making babysitting arrangements.

I’m not too disappointed by our decision, though. The Dutch TV coverage has, as always, been wonderful, affording us a view of the action rivalled only by that of the actual participants in the race.

As usual, unfortunately, it will prove difficult to stay abreast of the race’s progress whilst abroad. We usually leave on holiday after just a couple of stages, but this year we’ve had more time to become absorbed in the race, so it will be a bummer if we’re unable to find any coverage of it on British TV. In that case, we’ll have to make do with Internet news footage.

Anyway, it’s time to grab some sleep and recharge for our first day in a new country, driving on the wrong side of the road.

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Bloody Sunday

Ever had one of those days? We did today.

I was woken by Lucas, asking me to go into the bathroom. As I staggered in there, groggy from just a few hours of sleep, I was greeted by the sight of Sarah, knickers around her knees, with a pool of blood at her feet. Spatters of claret radiated out from the scene of the impact.

Finally, after what had seemed like a fucking eternity, Sarah’s miscarriage was proclaiming its arrival.

Sobered by this visceral sight, I steeled myself for the task at hand and began to clear up the mess, as Sarah shuffled around the bathroom, leaving a trail of clotted blood and chunks of discharged placenta behind her. I’ve never liked Sunday mornings, but this one was turning into a real bitch.

Things started to go downhill from here. The low point came when Sarah had to get off the toilet and lie on the floor in a pool of her own blood, because she thought she was about to faint. Blood always looks worse than it is — a little goes a long way — but there really was a lot of blood on the floor, dripping down the toilet, all over Sarah’s rear end, etc. I had managed to despatch the children downstairs, but it wasn’t going to provide a lasting solution to a situation that appeared to be deteriorating.

The sight of my missus lying naked in a pool of her own blood, possibly about to lose consciousness and bleeding rather heavily from her genitals, started to give me the jitters. I went to fetch the phone and told Sarah it was time to call 112.

She protested, as you can imagine. She felt that she’d already jettisoned much of the placenta and probably had only a few chunks left to go. One such chunk, a rather large, gruesome sliver like a piece of wet, red liver, was protruding from her vagina. At least, we assumed it was a piece of placenta and not some essential part of her own body, such as her uterus. One piece of glistening, wet gore looks much the same as another to a layman.

The mess was now too much for her to be anywhere but in the bath, so she climbed back in and we took stock of the situation. At what point do you overrule the person you’re attending and decide that it’s better to suffer the barrage of insults that will inevitably ensue if you call them an ambulance, than it is to sit there, obey their instructions and possibly watch them die. As dramatic as that may sound, that’s the question that started to careen around my mind as I beheld the scene before me.

Someone had to be called. I couldn’t have the children complicating a situation that was already threatening to get out of hand. I called a couple of Sarah’s friends and they quickly scrambled to rush to our aid.

I have to say, I don’t know how long we sat there, Sarah bleeding and pleading, me watching the situation slowly slipping out of my control. It was incredibly unpleasant, more so for Sarah, of course, but I was afraid she was going to pass out at any moment, at which point our problem would become my sole responsibility, the gravity of which I was afraid might then cause me to behave erratically and lose precious time.

Thankfully, it didn’t come to that. At some point, the large chunk of placenta that had presumably been lodged in her cervix popped out like a champagne cork and the flow of blood started to subside. Together with our friends, I cleared up the mess and then Sarah went back to bed, clad in waterproof padding. I stayed by her side, of course, to make sure she was OK.

After some period of time, we got up, went downstairs and had some food with our friends.

Afterwards, they went home and Sarah went back to bed with Lucas for a well-deserved nap. Eloïse decamped to a friend’s house to play.

We’ve spent many weeks waiting for this moment, so that we can finally put this failed pregnancy behind us. Most other women choose an abortion in this situation, but Sarah was keen to let nature take its course. I fully supported her decision, but it’s frustrating when you don’t know how long you’re going to have to wait. It could be five days, five weeks or even five months, and when it comes, you have no idea how bad it’s going to be.

There was much more blood than either of us expected, but other than that, it wasn’t too bad in hindsight. She’s had some twinges and cramps this evening from the blood loss, but plenty of rest should fix that. All the same, it’s a great relief that to have the miscarriage behind us.

Sarah, being Sarah, even managed to fish the embryo out of the viscera. I didn’t want to look at first, but my morbid curiosity got the better of me and I had a peek at what might have been. Eloïse, too, wanted to look, but cried when she saw what was to have been her baby brother or sister. For me, that was the most moving moment of the whole experience.

As I looked at the tiny embryo on a piece of tissue paper, it was hard not to wonder what kind of person it might have become. I wondered what had gone wrong during its development and felt sad. For the first time since learning of its death, I felt sentimental about it.

But life goes on. And life, even today, allowed no pause for reflection. This afternoon was Eloïse’s long overdue birthday party, to be held in a craft studio a short bike ride away from here.

Sarah was in no fit state to bike, so she went in a friend’s car. I biked over there. We couldn’t use our own car, because it had mysteriously died. (Why does shit always happen at once?)

We spent a very relaxing afternoon in the company of Eloïse’s many friends, watching as they created a magic ball under the tuition of a nice craft teacher. I had been a little concerned that a children’s party might be too demanding for Sarah, but it was actually very relaxing to sit there and watch the children at work. There was no misbehaving and they all did a really good job on their ball, concentrating and having fun. We paused for cake and drinks halfway through and then resumed work on the ball until it was completed.

It’s been a long (and) bloody day. I’m proud of Sarah that she handled it on her own terms, treating a miscarriage with the same respect for nature as she would a birth.

Another of life’s little boxes was ticked today. I don’t need to experience another of these in my lifetime.

Within a few days, Sarah should be back to full strength. She’s a tough bird, my missus.

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Brendan Perry at London Union Chapel, 10th June 2010

This was the second of my two UK gigs, in Islington’s striking Union Chapel. The Chapel is a Grade II listed building and still in active service as a Congregational Church. It must surely rank as the most atmospheric venue that Brendan has played in thus far on this tour.

As I sat on the train to London, I watched terraced houses clad in the English flag fly by, proudly proclaiming the allegiance of their occupants to the national football team in the upcoming World Cup. My soundtrack was the recording I’d made of the previous night’s gig in Manchester.

As I listened, I thought ahead to the coming evening’s show, which promised to be something very special. Not only would Brendan be playing in a beautiful church, Piano Magic would be supporting.

When I arrived at the venue, I discovered that there was talk of cancelling the gig, due to the venue’s insistence that the noise level be kept below a rather subdued 85 dB. This was understandably causing Brendan a great deal of consternation and he was apparently seriously considering not going ahead with the show.

Thankfully for all of us, the issue was ultimately somehow resolved, but given remarks and gestures made by Brendan during the concert, I suspect that he had had to swallow his pride and compromise on the volume.

Piano Magic warmed up the audience in the chilly venue with an enjoyable 30 minute set, drawing mostly on material from Ovations. Forum speculation that Brendan might come out to sing one of the songs from Ovations on which he provides vocals turned out to be no more than wishful thinking on the part of the fans. Oh well.

Brendan and co. came on at 21:00 sharp (there was a strict 22:30 curfew), proceeding to play through the now very familiar live set.

Brendan’s Mac laptop gave up the ghost halfway through Tree Of Life, but the band saw the song through to the end. We all subsequently sat in silence while the machine was rebooted and Rachel told a lame joke to fill the dead air.

As in Manchester, Dream Letter was passed over tonight. Severance, on the other hand, resumed its rightful place as second encore after an enthusiastic crowd continued to applaud for more, egged on by various members of Brendan’s entourage.

The Union Chapel is arguably the perfect setting for Brendan’s music, prudish volume policy notwithstanding. Its acoustics richly compensated for any perceived lack of volume, giving the songs a spatial quality absent from the shoebox venues that Brendan has been playing of late. The songs soared and seemed to expand to fill the space available.

Nevertheless, Brendan gestured several times during the gig to one of his sound engineers, clearly indicating the need to crank up the volume of some piece of equipment or other. He also remarked early on that he had never played so quietly before and that it required a lot of discipline from him to do so.

To my ears, the gig wasn’t substantially quieter than any of the others I’ve been to on this tour, but the Edirol’s input meter doesn’t lie and I had to record this performance at a higher level than the others.

The audience was a strange mixture of reverential fans enthralled by what they were witnessing, and a small number of people more interested in getting drunk than in listening to the music.

Throughout the performance, these characters would walk down and along the aisles in the middle of songs, and exit via a door on the left side, which led out and up some stairs to the bar. They would subsequently re-emerge after a few minutes, visibly the worse for wear.

As the evening wore on, these individuals became progressively more inebriated, which saw them become louder and less able to remain on their feet. It didn’t reach the point of spoiling anyone’s enjoyment, but it was undesirable, particularly given the solemnity of the venue we were in.

Besides, how anyone can walk out of a room in which Brendan is performing, is quite beyond me.

I’d estimate that there were about 400 people there, but it’s hard to be accurate, because people had fanned out across the pews. The gig can’t have been sold out, though, because there was still plenty of seating to the left and right of the stage.

Highlights for me tonight were Love On The Vine, Eros and Spirit, quintessential versions one and all.

And so my English trip comes to a close. Tomorrow morning, I board a train back to Amsterdam.

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