No place like home

What a busy week.

I arrived in Amsterdam on Thursday, the 29th. I dumped my stuff, hired a bike (what a bloody rip-off; it would have been better to buy, but I’d have to leave it behind, anyway) and went to get my hair cut.

The next day, Koninginnedag, went off very well. The weather cooperated and Amsterdam quickly filled with people. Sarah and I spent the morning in De Jordaan, later heading down to Het Spui and Het Museumplein. It was too busy to hang around there for long, however, so we continued walking to De Pijp, where things were a little calmer.

While walking around Amsterdam, we ran into my barber, who informed me that Google had finally registered their intention to go public the day before. Thank Christ for that! At last, the press can stop pouring grain onto the rumour mill. It seems funny to have been in the eye of the hurricane for so long, at the very centre of all the commotion. Then, I fly to The Netherlands and end up finding out about the filing from my Dutch barber.

The next day, we took a train to Nijmegen, where we were met by Jules and Linda. We spent a pleasant evening, eating tapas, talking about the good old days at Sonera and speculating on the future. On Sunday, we all went walking in the woods around Nijmegen. It was nice to be out of an urban environment for a while.

Monday morning saw us up bright and early for an appointment with Ernst & Young, where we received some tax advice on our awkward Dutch-American affairs. Finally, we have some actual knowledge on which to base our decisions, rather than just hearsay and seemingly logical deductions. The situation actually turns out to be quite favourable for us, but will likely require me to dump my American green-card next year. It’s complicated.

We spent the rest of the day biking around the Amstel, through the villages Ouderkerk a/d Amstel, Nes a/d Amstel and Uithoorn. On the way back, we rode through the Amsterdamse Bos and stopped at the geitenboederij, where we fed some goats and enjoyed an ice-cream in the sun. The simple pleasures are the best.

On Tuesday, we went to Keukenhof, near Leiden, an expensive and typically touristic destination, showing off Dutch flowers in all of their variegated glory. There were some nice fields of blooming bulbs during the train journey, too. I felt rather embarrassed to be there with all of the other tourists, but there were quite a lot of other Dutch people, too, so I suppose it’s not such a tourist trap after all.

The next day saw us make a long bike trip across the river IJ and then up to

Broek-in-Waterland, before travelling on to Monnickendam, Katwoude, Volendam, Marken, Uitdam, Durgerdam and Nieuwendam. This used to be one of my favourite routes, but I’ve aged a bit since then. It was also extremely windy on top of the dike between Marken and Durgerdam, which was good for working up some heat and strengthening those thigh muscles.

After a visit to my favourite eetcafe, Cambodja City, we biked down the Amstel to enjoy the Bevrijdingsdag concert on the water. Sarah was rather excited to be able to wave to Queen Beatrix and the Dutch prime-minister, Jan-Pieter Balkenende. There was a great atmosphere at the concert, aided by yet another day of dry weather.

Today has been spent walking around town and imagining how it will feel to be back here for good next year. It’s rather odd to walk around a city all day, a city you once lived in for a decade, but then have no home to go to at the end of it. Still, at least we have the flat we’re renting, which gives us a more homely feeling than staying at a hotel would. We can come home and watch AT5 with a glass of Chocomel and a gevulde koek. Like I said, I’m easy to please, when you get down to it.

Much warme chocolademelk met slagroom has been consumed on this trip, along with saucijzenbroodjes, vlaai and — at long last — some decent koffie. We haven’t met up with as many people on this trip as last year (hardly any, actually), but that’s been nice for building up an impression of how it will be to live here again. That’s especially useful for Sarah, of course, who has never lived here.

We have one more day in NL before flying home, but we haven’t yet planned how we’re going to spend it. I can’t say I’m looking forward to getting back.

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Holiday

I’m leaving now for San Francisco airport to fly to Amsterdam, where I’ll reunite with Sarah, who’s been flying between England and Ireland for the last couple of weeks.

My next entry will be from The Netherlands.

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Under the microscope

It’s a bizarre experience to work at a company about whom a news story appears in the media at least once an hour. Reporters have even been known to hide in our bushes, so we now have security guards in the car park, ready to shoo away anyone who comes poking around.

This is one of the interesting things about living in Silicon Valley. I could move back to The Netherlands and spend the next 500 years working at a couple of hundred fresh, exciting, new companies, but I guarantee you that not one of them would ever come in for the attention that this one does.

How come?

It comes down to the difference in mentality between Americans and the Dutch (but not just the Dutch, of course; substitute any other European country here). In business, Americans — especially denizens of The Valley as it’s called around here — view the sky as the limit. Ideas that would be dismissed as fantasy elsewhere, receive massive funding here and come to life.

Of course, those ideas are fantasy, but that’s not the point. The point is that they can be made into reality by hard work, brilliance and not a small amount of luck. There’s one other quality that’s required however: sheer, unfettered imagination; and that’s where we sober Dutch come a little unstuck. We have good ideas, but immediately consign our more fantastically conceived ones to cloud cuckoo land.

But Silicon Valley is cloud cuckoo land. Here, no idea is too brilliant — or, as we’ve seen all too often in recent years, too idiotic — for its conceiver to dismiss it as not representing a viable business model. Thanks to venture capital funding and a plethora of rich potential angel investors always looking for the next big thing, it’s possible to obtain the necessary backing to get your idea off the ground.

In The Netherlands, in contrast, you’d be laughed at.

“It’s 1998 and you want to start a search-engine? Er, have you seen Yahoo?

Alta Vista? Excite? Search-engines are an established phenomenon and this

area is a solved problem.”

Being Dutch myself, I thought much the same thing back when I first started using Google, but it just goes to show you what is possible with, yes, that unfettered imagination I spoke of earlier, plus all of the other ingredients I mentioned and probably a few more elements too intangible for me to readily quantify.

That said, there’s nothing quite like home. What the Dutch lack in imagination, they make up for socially. The Yanks may be flamboyant in business, but they’re ultra-conservative in most other regards and living in the US can be a remarkably remote and stifling experience.

The Dutch are quite the opposite, so whilst I may have trouble finding an interesting job after Google, I’ll at least be able to know that my future children will be living in a place where prime-time television doesn’t consist of women engaging in expensive plastic surgery in order to become worthy of the moniker The Swan.

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Evolution Of Writing

I stumbled on this nice account of the evolution of writing tonight.

It’s amazing to think that the Greeks invented something that was then adopted by the Romans, who refined and bequeathed it to civilisations to come. Here am I, on the west coast of North America, using a language and a script that germinated and matured elsewhere. Each word that I type here tonight is the product of years of linguistic refinement and mutation. How amazing when you consider it. Where will it go from here?

We think ourselves so evolved, too, until you consider that we’ve only had the written word for a little over two centuries. Compare that to the amount of time that mankind has existed on the planet and you realise that we’re really still in the dark ages. What fundamental inventions are yet to come, that people hundreds of years from now will consider us barbaric for having had to live without, in much the same way that many of us today imagine how dull life must have been before television, when people actually had to engage in the art of conversation?

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Portent?

So, with Sarah still over on the Emerald Isle, I went to Chef Chu for dinner tonight. At the end of the meal, the waiter brought me my fortune-cookie. It turned out to be empty.

I’m getting on an aeroplane on Wednesday.

It’s a good thing I’m not superstitious.

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