Here we are in Starý Smokovec, for the last of our three nights.
We made it here a couple of days ago, via the Dobšinská ice cave. That was an amazing experience, not least because the weather had turned and there were thunderstorms happening overhead as we entered the cave.
It was 25°C as we went inside, but within ten seconds the temperature had dropped to freezing point. The ice was 20 m thick in places inside. There were two power-cuts while we were inside the cave, deep underground, which plunged us into total darkness. We had to be led outside, up the steep staircase, by torch-wielding guides after the second.
The ice cave was fantastic, however. I’ve never experienced anything like it. I highly recommend a visit if you’re ever in the neighbourhood of Eastern Slovakia.
That brought us to the High Tatras, a mountain range in an area that has been declared a national park. To say it’s beautiful here is to fail to do justice to the area, and yet, so few tourists (even Western Europeans) have heard of it.
Our hotel, The Grand, is also quite luxurious, especially by Slovakian standards. Not only is the food very good, but Sarah and I both had massages yesterday and the whole family went into the swimming-pool this afternoon. Eloïse turns out to have no fear of water; she really enjoyed herself in the pool.
The massage last night reminded me of the wonderful massages I used to get at Google, just one of the many things I miss about the place. I’ll be enjoying another of the hotel’s massages this evening.
Yesterday, we took the funicular railway to Hrebienok, about 1280 m up (we’re at 1010 m in Starý Smokovec). From there, we hiked several kilometres uphill, crossing a couple of lovely waterfalls, to Sliezsky dom, next to a huge waterfall (fed by melt-water, I think). The waterfall fed into a huge, ice-cold lake, by the side of which I found a rather large frog, one of the few notable wildlife sightings on this trip.
We found something to eat at the chata by the lake, then hiked all the way back down to ground level. Once again, it was a full day of hiking and we were very tired by the end of it. Our baby-carrier is now well and truly worn in, I would say. I estimate that I have carried Eloïse some 40 – 50 km in it since we set out on this trip. If only someone would carry my fat arse over the mountains.
This morning, we set off early to take the cable-car from Tatranská Lomnica to the winter ski area and lake known as Skalnaté pleso. After walking around the lake and taking photos of the snow-capped mountains, we took a second cable-car, which departed much less frequently and had to be booked a couple of hours in advance, to the summit of Lomnický štít, at 2634 m. It was very cold up there, so we had already changed into winter clothing. Indeed, our thick fleeces and winter coats were brought on this trip for just this one day, as we knew they would be needed.
At the summit, we were afforded wondrous views across the Tatras. Occasionally, the clouds would come rolling in and obscure everything, but after a few minutes, they would disperse again, allowing us fantastic views across the jagged landscape the snow-covered mountains.
Tomorrow, we’ll leave the High Tatras National Park and head for the Pieniny National Park, situated snugly against the Polish border. There, weather permitting, we’ll go rafting downstream. It remains to be seen how well this will work with Eloïse along for the ride, but she and we are game, so we’ll soon find out!
Once we’ve finished rafting, we’ll need to get a taxi back to the spot where we hit the water, eight kilometres upstream. From there, we’ll drive on to Bardejov, where we’ll spend the night.